Skip Prague: Olomouc, Moravian Baroque Without the Crowds

Olomouc: the Czech Republic's Best-Kept Secret

Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, and that is precisely why it has become one of the most overcrowded. Charles Bridge at eight in the morning resembles the Tokyo metro, the Old Town Square is a stage for selfies, and restaurant prices in the centre have reached levels that would make a Viennese blush. Olomouc, the sixth city of the Czech Republic and historic capital of Moravia, has a Baroque heritage that rivals Prague's — with the crucial difference that foreign tourists are a rarity here.

The Column of the Holy Trinity

Olomouc's emblematic monument is the Column of the Holy Trinity on the main square (Horní náměstí), a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. Standing 35 metres tall, it is the largest Baroque sculpture in Central Europe, an 18th-century monumental work that celebrates the end of the plague with an exuberance of saints, angels and allegorical figures. The square itself is a Baroque drawing room complete with an astronomical clock — yes, Olomouc has one too, rebuilt in a Socialist Realist style in 1955, with workers and peasants in place of the apostles. It is kitsch and captivating at the same time.

What to See

- Horní náměstí — The upper square with the UNESCO Column, the astronomical clock and the Renaissance town hall.

- Baroque fountains — Six monumental fountains with mythological figures (Caesar, Hercules, Neptune, Jupiter, Triton, Mercury) scattered across the centre.

- Archbishop's Palace and Cathedral — Olomouc has been an archiepiscopal seat for a thousand years. The Cathedral of Saint Wenceslas, with its neo-Gothic spire, dominates the skyline.

- Klášterní Hradisko — Former Premonstratensian monastery, now a military hospital, with one of the finest Baroque cloisters in Moravia.

- Art Museum — Housed in a noble palace, it contains the largest art collection in Moravia.

- Smetana Gardens — A park along the Morava river, perfect for a relaxing stroll.

University City

Palacký University, founded in 1573, is the second oldest in the Czech Republic after Charles University in Prague. Its 25,000 students represent a quarter of the population and give the city a surprising cultural vitality. The bars and breweries in the centre offer Czech beer at prices that in Prague you can no longer find even in the outer neighbourhoods: a half-litre of Pilsner or local Moravian beer often costs less than one euro. An evening in the student pubs of Denisova ulice is an immersion in genuine Bohemia.

Tvarůžky: the Cheese That Divides Opinion

Olomouc is the home of tvarůžky, small aged cheeses with an intensely pungent aroma (some would say aggressive) that are a local gastronomic institution. They are eaten fried with bread and mustard in breweries, bought at the market or admired in the factory at Loštice, just outside the city. They are an experience: you may love them or hate them, but you cannot visit Olomouc without trying them. For the rest, Moravian cuisine is generous: svíčková (roast beef in cream sauce with knedlíky), smažený sýr (fried cheese) and pastries such as koláče filled with poppy seeds.

How to Get There

Olomouc is reached by train from Prague in about 2 hours 15 minutes with RegioJet or Czech Railways. From Vienna it is about 3 hours. The nearest airports are Brno (about 80 km) or Ostrava (100 km), but from most European cities it makes more sense to fly to Prague and continue by train. The historic centre is entirely pedestrianised and very comfortable to explore on foot.

When to Go

Spring and autumn are the ideal periods. In April the city blooms and temperatures are mild. In September–October the autumn colours and Moravian harvests (Moravia is the Czech Republic's main wine-growing region) create a magical atmosphere. Summer is lively with open-air festivals and concerts. Winter is cold but evocative, with authentic Christmas markets where mulled wine costs a few cents.

Prague Is Unmissable. Olomouc Is Unforgettable

It is not a question of choosing one or the other, but of understanding what you are looking for. If you want the open-air museum, Prague remains unsurpassed. If you want to experience the Czech Republic as the Czechs themselves do — with excellent beer, extravagant Baroque, pungent cheeses and no queues — Olomouc is the answer you did not know you were looking for.