Instead of Madeira: São Miguel, Azores — Volcanoes and Lakes in the Atlantic

Why choose São Miguel over Madeira

Madeira is a wonderful island, but the secret is out: low-cost flights, cruise ships and digital nomads have transformed it into one of the most crowded Atlantic destinations. Funchal is congested, the levada trails require advance booking, and prices have risen sharply. But 900 km to the northwest, in the Atlantic Ocean, the Azores preserve a primordial nature that Madeira possessed before its boom.

São Miguel, the largest of the archipelago's nine islands, is a concentrated collection of geological wonders: lakes inside the craters of dormant volcanoes, steaming hot springs in the forest, waterfalls hidden in subtropical vegetation, and an ocean where whales and dolphins swim. All of this less than 3 hours by air from Italy, with a surprisingly low cost of living.

The volcanic lakes: Sete Cidades and Furnas

The landscape of São Miguel is dominated by volcanoes and the lakes that fill their craters:

- Sete Cidades — the most spectacular crater holds two twin lakes, one green and one blue, separated by a bridge. Legend tells that their colours are the tears of a shepherd and a princess separated by fate

- Lagoa do Fogo — the "lake of fire" is hidden in a wild crater reachable by an hour's hike. Its waters are among the purest in Europe

- Furnas — a geothermal valley of fumaroles, hot springs and bubbling mud. Here they cook the cozido das Furnas, a stew buried underground and cooked by volcanic heat for six hours

Natural hot springs

São Miguel is a natural thermal paradise:

- Poça da Dona Beija — pools of warm ferruginous water set in tropical vegetation, open until evening

- Caldeira Velha — a warm waterfall in a forest of tree ferns, a scene straight out of Jurassic Park

- Termas da Ferraria — a natural ocean pool where volcanic water mingles with the waves, changing temperature with the tide

Whales and dolphins

The Azores are one of the best places in the world for cetacean watching. In the waters around São Miguel, over 20 different species pass through: resident sperm whales year-round, blue whales in spring, common dolphins and striped dolphins always present. Sea excursions depart from Ponta Delgada with certified operators who guarantee a respectful approach to the animals.

Azorean tea

São Miguel is the only place in Europe where tea is cultivated. The Gorreana plantation, founded in 1883, is the oldest tea plantation in Europe. The neat rows of emerald-green bushes on hills overlooking the ocean are a sight unlike any other. The visit is free and includes a tasting. Nearby, the Porto Formoso Tea Factory offers a similar experience in a more intimate setting.

Trekking and nature

São Miguel has an extraordinary network of trails: from the circuit of the Sete Cidades crater to the Salto do Prego waterfalls, from the rainforest of Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões to the cliffs of Ponta da Ferraria. The trails are well marked, free and almost always deserted.

How to get there

Direct flights from several European cities with Ryanair, SATA and TAP Portugal. From Lisbon the flight takes 2 and a half hours. Prices are often surprisingly low, especially outside the peak season. Ponta Delgada airport is small and 10 minutes from the centre.

Where to eat

The cozido das Furnas is an unmissable experience: you'll find it in the restaurants of the Furnas valley such as Tony's. In Ponta Delgada, A Tasca serves traditional cooking with supremely fresh fish. Cais 20 serves modern dishes with harbour views. The Azorean ananás (grown in greenhouses) is the sweetest you will ever taste. A full meal costs €12–20.

Culture and traditions

São Miguel preserves deeply rooted traditions. The Festas do Espírito Santo, held from May to September in every village on the island, are religious and community celebrations with processions, music and collective feasts. The Império, a small coloured chapel dedicated to the Holy Spirit, is present in every hamlet — there are hundreds on the island, each decorated in a different colour.

Azorean architecture is unique: the white churches trimmed in black volcanic stone create a spectacular graphic contrast. In Ponta Delgada, the Portas da Cidade (city gates) are the symbol of the island, and the Church of São Sebastião blends Manueline Gothic with Baroque elements. The Forte de São Brás, a 16th-century fortress, houses the military museum with views over the harbour.

For those who love craftsmanship, the Azores produce unique liqueurs (the Maracujá, from passion fruit, is delicious), hand-painted ceramics and wickerwork woven according to centuries-old traditions. The pineapple plantations, grown in glass greenhouses using a method unique in the world that involves fumigation to trigger flowering, can be visited free of charge at the various fazendas around Ponta Delgada.

How much you save

The Azores are one of Western Europe's most affordable destinations. Accommodation from €40–70 a night, meals from €10–18, car hire from €25 a day. Compared to Madeira, prices are 20–30% lower. But the real advantage is in the value of the experience: primordial nature, extraordinary marine wildlife, and the feeling of discovering a world that mass tourism has not yet found.