The Sentiero del Viandante on the Eastern Shore of Lake Como
On the eastern shore of Lake Como, from Abbadia Lariana to Colico, an ancient mule track runs high above the water. While tour buses crowd into Bellagio and Varenna, here you walk among villages, olive trees, and near-silent terraces.
Foto: M.casanova (CC BY-SA 4.0) — Wikimedia Commons
When people think of Lake Como, they picture crowded villas, packed ferries, and selfies in Bellagio. And yet you only need to move to the eastern shore, the Lecco side, and climb a few dozen metres above the waterline to rediscover the lake of times past. The Sentiero del Viandante follows a historic route that for centuries connected the villages of Lake Como without passing along the shoreline: it's a natural balcony that hit-and-run tourists, focused on the Como-Bellagio-Varenna axis, simply never see.
The route
The route runs along the eastern coast and links Abbadia Lariana to Colico, above the Lecco branch of the lake. Setting off from Abbadia, you climb immediately through woods and dry-stone walls, with the lake opening up behind you. You cross the area of Mandello del Lario, touch the hamlet of Lierna with its views over the promontory, and continue toward Varenna, perhaps the best-known point on the trail. From here on, though, the flow of walkers thins out and the path becomes truly intimate: you pass above Bellano, near its famous gorge, reach the villages of Dervio and Dorio, and finally end at Colico, where the lake gives way to the plain and the mountains of the Valtellina.
The beauty of this itinerary is that you don't need to be a mountaineer. The trail rises and falls gently along the slope, crossing olive groves, remnant vineyards, votive chapels, and paved mule tracks that speak of the old toil of those who travelled them with their mules. Now and then you drop down to a lakeside village for a coffee or to catch the train, then climb back up. It's a trek you can do in sections, one stage a day, choosing the stretches to suit your own legs.
How to get there
Getting there is surprisingly convenient, and this is precisely what makes it precious for those who dislike driving. The railway line running along the eastern shore of the lake connects Lecco to Colico, stopping in many of the villages you'll pass through: Abbadia Lariana, Mandello, Lierna, Varenna, Bellano, Dervio, Colico. This lets you walk in one direction and comfortably return by train to your starting point, with no shuttles or second vehicles needed. The stations are nearly always right on the lakeshore, while the path runs higher up: each stage therefore involves a small climb at the start and a final descent back to the tracks.
When to go
The best time is spring, between April and May, and the autumn of October. These are the months when the light on the lake is at its clearest, the slopes take on colour, and temperatures stay pleasant even on the climbs. Above all, they are the months when the peak-summer crowds have not yet invaded the shores: the villages can breathe again, the ferries are less packed, and on the trails you meet more clanging cowbells than organised groups. In summer, the heat and humidity of the valley floor make the walk less enjoyable, while winter can bring slippery stretches and short days; that's why the shoulder seasons are the right window.
What to see
Along the way there is no shortage of reasons to slow down. The Torre di Vezio above Varenna and the Torre di Maggiana near Mandello, which watched over the lake for centuries, the isolated little churches that emerge among the olive trees, the terraces held up by dry-stone walls that bear witness to centuries of mountain farming: every stretch has its small treasure, rarely mentioned in the most popular guides. This is a lake to read slowly, hamlet by hamlet, letting the details tell its story instead of the famous names.
A practical tip: study the schedules of the regional trains on the lakeside line in advance and organise each day around them, because in the middle of the day and in the smaller villages, services aren't all that frequent. Always carry water, since fountains between one village and the next aren't guaranteed, and wear shoes with a good grip: the paved mule tracks become slippery after rain. Finally, don't be in a hurry to complete it all: the point of the Sentiero del Viandante isn't to reach Colico, but to rediscover the slow Lake Como, the one you savour by stopping to gaze at it from above.
Practical guides for Como
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Sentiero del Viandante on the Eastern Shore of Lake Como?
The recommended time is April, May and October, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Sentiero del Viandante on the Eastern Shore of Lake Como?
The Sentiero del Viandante on the Eastern Shore of Lake Como is located in Eastern shore of Lake Como, from Abbadia Lariana to Colico, Italy.
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