Among magnolias and cloisters: the courtyards of the University of Pavia

In Pavia, along Corso Strada Nuova, a measured facade gives no hint of what it holds. Cross the portal of the University's Central Palace and you enter a succession of arcaded courtyards that few visitors, distracted by the nearby charterhouse or by Milan, ever truly stop to observe. Among these, the so-called Courtyard of the Magnolias offers its most secluded corner: tables in the shade of the trees, the low voices of students, the noise of the city fading beneath the loggias.

Centuries of history

The University's roots reach back to 1361, but the palace took shape later: between 1485 and 1490 Ludovico il Moro assigned the university a building along Strada Nuova. From then on the complex grew through successive layers, and each courtyard tells of a different era. To walk here is to cross centuries without a guide, reading the architecture like a book open to the sky.

The ancient courtyards

The two oldest courtyards, today named after figures linked to the University, were redesigned in the seventeenth century with a double portico of paired Doric columns in pink Baveno granite, joined by balustrades and arches. In the eighteenth century the work also touched the facades, in a season of renewal that drew to Pavia professors of European renown. Beneath some of the porticoes, Roman-era epigraphs and stone fragments are set into the walls, gathered over time: details easy to miss if you walk in a hurry.

Living the space

The beauty of these spaces is that they remain alive and everyday, not turned into a museum. You enter freely during the palace's opening hours, cross one courtyard to emerge into another, sit on a bench to watch the light filter between the columns. It is a place to experience with discretion, respecting the work of those who study: speak softly, don't occupy the reading areas, leave the halls to those who use them.

It is worth slowing down. In a city often seen only in passing, these cloisters are an invitation to stop: an hour of Renaissance silence a few steps from the station, offered by one of the oldest universities in Europe.

Getting there

The historic courtyards of the University of Pavia are in the city centre and are easily reached on foot. Those arriving by train head for Pavia station, well connected to Milan and a short distance from the university. The reference airports are Milan's Linate and Malpensa. By car the city is reachable from the main Lombard arteries, but it is best to leave the vehicle outside the central area.

Practical guides

• How to get to Pavia: trains, planes, cars and buses
• What to see in Pavia in 2 days: itinerary through the Certosa, the university and the Ticino
• Where to stay in Pavia: neighborhoods, accommodation and practical tips
• Where to eat in Pavia: best restaurants, osterias and Pavese risotto guide