The Transhumance Drovers' Roads Cycle Route in Upper Molise

There's a simple reason you'll meet almost no one here: Molise is the region Italian tourism keeps skipping. And precisely for that reason Upper Molise is one of the most surprising places to bring a bicycle. The tratturi, the wide grassy droving roads along which flocks climbed and descended for centuries between Abruzzo and Apulia, are still there: green ribbons crossing open highlands, woods and villages where the shuttered windows sometimes outnumber the lived-in ones.

The route

The heart of this itinerary is the Celano-Foggia tratturo and the network branching around Pescolanciano, Carovilli and Pietrabbondante. Pietrabbondante deserves a stop of its own: its Samnite sanctuary, with the theatre and temples facing the mountains, is one of the most striking and least visited archaeological sites in the Centre-South. From here you descend and climb again toward Agnone, the town of bells, where for nearly a thousand years bells have been cast in a foundry that is itself a stop worth making.

Heading west you reach the Montedimezzo reserve and the Vastogirardi area, with its beech and silver fir forests, protected within the Collemeluccio-Montedimezzo UNESCO Biosphere Reserve (MAB), among the first recognised in Italy. Further south, Capracotta is one of the highest municipalities in the Apennines and in summer offers the cool air of the highlands: the Giardino della Flora Appenninica and the Prato Gentile plateau are natural landmarks for those who want to stop and breathe.

The terrain

The surface is varied, and that's part of the appeal: stretches of grassy and unpaved tratturo, paved secondary roads almost free of traffic, and the odd rough passage where it's best to get off and walk. This is gravel or mountain-bike terrain, not for narrow tyres. Don't underestimate the elevation: you're deep in the Apennine mountains, with constant ups and downs between valleys and highlands, so it's a demanding route, suited to those with fit legs and no rush. Better to think of it as a journey in short stages, sleeping in the small towns, rather than a race.

Getting here takes some effort, and that's the price of the quiet. The nearest stations are far and public transport is scarce: the most convenient option is to drive to Isernia or to one of the starting villages such as Pescolanciano or Agnone, leave the car in town and then move around only by bike. Once inside, you travel exclusively on two wheels, relying on the few bars and grocery shops in the villages to resupply: don't take it for granted that you'll find services at every stage, so it's wise to set off with water and something to eat.

When to go

The right months are late spring and early autumn. In May the highlands are lush green and in bloom, the days long and the temperatures still gentle; in October the beeches turn copper and the air is crisp. These are also the periods when the transhumance, where still practised, comes back to life. Winter here is harsh and snowy, and while summer on the highlands is pleasant, the valleys can get hot. In any case, crowds are never a problem: even in high season you'll rarely cross paths with other bike travellers, and that's exactly the point.

Practical tips

A practical tip: before you set off, make a couple of phone calls. In these villages lodgings are few and often need to be arranged directly, as does the availability of a hot meal in the evening. Giving advance notice to farm stays and small inns not only guarantees you a bed and a dinner of local produce, but it's also the best way to connect with the people who still live in these places, and to give something back to a land that truly could use slow tourism.