The Monte Cervati loop, the roof of Campania
The highest peak in Campania lies in the inland Cilento, far from the beaches where all the tourism is concentrated. Karst caves, beech woods and the rock sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve on a plateau that few hikers reach.
Foto: Nico86roma (CC BY-SA 3.0) — Wikimedia Commons
The Cilento is famous for the sea, for Palinuro, for coasts crowded in summer. But you only have to turn your back on the coast and climb inland to find yourself in a completely different, almost deserted world: that of the Cilento mountains. Here rises Monte Cervati, the highest summit in Campania, within the Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park. While a few dozen kilometres away the beaches are packed, on the trails of the Cervati you often walk in total solitude, among high-altitude pastures, beech woods and surprising karst phenomena.
The itinerary
The most classic starting point for the loop is the village of Sanza, from which you climb towards the mountain. The ascent crosses woods and clearings until you gain the broad summit plateau, a world of grasslands and dolines where the vegetation thins and the gaze runs far. Along the way you come across the rock sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve, carved into a natural cave just below the summit, a historic site of devotion and a landmark for those climbing up. The massif is also famous for its caves and sinkholes, the sign of a limestone mountain hollowed out by water over the millennia. Another element that makes the climb worthwhile is precisely this interweaving of nature and faith, with the cave of the Madonna the goal of a pilgrimage that has climbed up here for centuries, one of those experiences that give the walk the flavour of a small journey through time. From the summit, on clear days, the gaze embraces a vast horizon, from the sea to the mountains of the interior.
The effort
The loop is a demanding hike but within reach of anyone with a minimum of training. The elevation gain needed to reach the plateau is considerable and should be spread out calmly, while the overall length makes for a full day: it's best to set off early. There are no mountaineering difficulties, but the upper part is exposed to sun and wind and offers no shelter, so the weather should be checked carefully. The waymarking isn't clear everywhere and on the plateau, in case of fog, it's easy to lose your bearings: a GPS track and map are strongly recommended. Water on the summit section is scarce or absent, so it must be carried in adequate quantity.
When to go
The ideal months are June, September and October. In June the blooms of the high-altitude pastures are splendid and the days are long; in September and October the air becomes clear and the beeches begin to turn, offering intense colours. These are periods when the great tourist influx is all concentrated on the coast or has already gone home, and the mountains remain a choice of the few. Even at the height of summer, for that matter, you don't see the crowds here that besiege the beaches: those seeking the authentic, silent Cilento find it right up here. In winter the summit can be snow-covered and requires specific experience, so the shoulder seasons are better.
The roof of Campania
There's something special about climbing to the roof of Campania while everyone else is heading down to the sea. The Cervati is a mountain that rewards patience: the long climb through the woods prepares you for the sudden opening of the plateau, where your breathing expands and the noise of the world vanishes. It's an experience that gives back an unexpected geography of Campania, made of peaks, dolines and silences, worlds away from the postcard image. For those who love walking, it's also the chance to discover the park's network of trails, which branch off in many directions from here and let you extend your exploration of this little-known corner.
A practical tip: set off in the early morning, both to enjoy the best light on the plateau and to avoid the afternoon storms that in the mountains can form suddenly, especially in summer. Carry an abundant water supply, sun protection and a windproof layer, because on the summit the weather changes rapidly. And take advantage of passing through the villages of the inland Cilento to sample the local produce, from cheeses to beans, a mountain cuisine that few associate with this land of the sea and that alone is worth the detour away from the coast.
Practical guides for Udine
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Monte Cervati loop?
The recommended time is June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Monte Cervati loop?
The Monte Cervati loop is located in Inland Cilento, Salerno.
