Alta Via of the Friulian Dolomites (AV6)

The most famous Dolomites are made of crowded huts, cable cars and walls lit up by camera flashes. The Friulian Dolomites are the exact opposite: steep, crumbling, short on water and shelter, with no ski lifts at all. This is why they have remained among the wildest and least visited of all, so much so that those who walk them call them the forgotten Dolomites. High Route number 6, nicknamed the High Route of Silences, crosses them in the heart of the Friulian Dolomites Nature Park, a protected area included among the Dolomite World Heritage sites.

The route

The itinerary unfolds over several days among narrow valleys, gravel gullies and severe peaks, relying on the few huts and bivouacs of the area. Among the landmarks are the Rifugio Pordenone, at the foot of the Cridola and Monfalconi groups, a starting base for many who tackle the traverse; the Rifugio Padova, on the Cadore side; and the Forni di Sopra area, at the Friulian end of the route. Between one shelter and the next the path passes over high, isolated forcelle, where you can walk for hours without meeting anyone and where water must be managed carefully because sources are rare.

The landscape is that of a mineral world: shifting scree, crumbling spires, dense forests on the valley floors and the almost total absence of human traces. It is precisely this harshness that has kept tourism away: you don't come here for a stroll, but to immerse yourself in a demanding, barely tamed environment.

Getting there

You reach the area from Pordenone by heading up the Valcellina toward Cimolais and Claut, or from the Carnia side by way of Forni di Sopra. A car is needed to reach the trailheads, then everything is done on foot, sleeping in the huts and bivouacs along the route.

The Monfalconi and Spalti di Toro group, which forms the backdrop to much of the route, is a labyrinth of towers, pinnacles and saddles with few equals in the Dolomites for ruggedness and verticality. Here there are none of the rolling meadows and tamed panoramas of the more touristy valleys: the terrain is dominated by pale rock and gravel, and vegetation clings only to the valley floors, where mountain-pine and fir woods survive. It is an environment that demands walking with your eyes always alert, because the track sometimes blurs among the stones and route-finding becomes an integral part of the experience, but this very starkness is what draws those seeking the most authentic mountains.

The difficulty

The difficulty is high, and it must be said plainly: the AV6 is considered one of the most demanding of the Dolomite High Routes. The stages are long, the elevation gains marked, the paths often exposed, over crumbling, awkward terrain, with passages over shifting scree and stretches that require a steady foot and no fear of heights. It is not a route for beginners: it takes high-mountain experience, route-finding ability and self-sufficiency, because rescue and shelter are far away. The scarcity of huts forces you to plan each stage and water supply carefully.

When to go

The best time is high summer, when the huts are open and the trails free of snow. July and August offer the most stable conditions, while September brings clear air and an even deeper solitude, but with the risk of the first cold snaps and shelters beginning to close. The crowds, here, are never a problem: even in high season the Friulian Dolomites remain among the most deserted corners of the Eastern Alps, because the effort and the harshness discourage casual tourism.

A practical tip: plan carefully before setting off, checking the actual opening of the huts and bivouacs, the distances between water sources and the weather conditions, because in these valleys a storm can make the gravel gullies dangerous. Bring plenty of water, sturdy footwear and a good dose of caution, and honestly assess your experience: the AV6 rewards you with a sense of wilderness rare in the Alps, but asks respect and preparation in return. If the full traverse is too much, you can savour individual stages starting from the huts reachable from the valley floors.