Instead of the Amalfi Coast: the Costa Viola, the Calabrian Shore That Falls into the Tyrrhenian Sea
Between Palmi and Scilla, violet cliffs at sunset, deserted beaches and Chianalea — the fishermen's borgo built on the water. Italy's forgotten coastline.
Foto: Glabb (CC BY-SA 4.0) — Wikimedia Commons
The Costa Viola takes its name from the colour the sea assumes at sunset: a deep violet that reflects off the cliffs and beaches, creating a chromatic effect unique in the Mediterranean. This stretch of Calabrian coast — between Palmi and Scilla, facing the Strait of Messina — is one of the most spectacular and least visited in Italy.
Scilla is the jewel of the coast: the Castello Ruffo commands the headland that separates two beaches, and at its foot lies Chianalea — a fishermen's village where the houses are built directly on the rocks, with boats moored beneath the windows. Walking through Chianalea at sunset, when the fishermen return and the lampare lights flicker on for swordfish fishing, is an experience no Amalfi Coast can offer.
The beach at Tonnara di Palmi is one of the finest in Calabria: dark sand framed by cliffs of metamorphic rock that change colour with the light. You reach it on foot along a path that descends through olive groves, and even in August you'll never find it as crowded as the beaches of the Amalfi Coast.
Bagnara Calabra — the home of torrone nougat — is a vertical borgo clinging to the mountainside with a seafront promenade where in the evening people stroll eating gelato and gazing at Sicily. The tradition of swordfish fishing with feluche — traditional vessels with a tall lookout tower — is still alive, and between May and July you can watch the fishing from the harbour.
Eating on the Costa Viola is an experience you will not forget: swordfish alla ghiotta, pasta with sardines and wild fennel, 'nduja from Spilinga, caramelised Tropea red onion. Prices are those of deep Calabria: a full fish dinner for fifteen euros, a litre of local wine for five.
The Costa Viola is reached from the A2 motorway (Palmi or Bagnara exit), from Reggio Calabria station (regional trains towards Scilla and Bagnara) or from Reggio Calabria airport thirty minutes away. Accommodation is simple but authentic: B&Bs in Chianalea, agriturismi on the hills, sea-view apartments. Avoid August if you can: the coast is still less crowded than the Amalfi, but September and June are ideal.
Practical guides for Amalfi
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Instead of the Amalfi Coast?
The recommended time is May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Is Instead of the Amalfi Coast crowded?
Instead of the Amalfi Coast is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is Instead of the Amalfi Coast?
Instead of the Amalfi Coast is located in Costa Viola, Calabria, Italy.
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How to get there
- ✈️ Nearest airport: Aeroporto di Reggio Calabria - Tito Minniti REG ~21 km as the crow flies
Nearest points as the crow flies (source OpenStreetMap): actual times depend on the roads, often mountain ones.
