Perugia, Umbria, Italy

Where to eat in Perugia: best restaurants, trattorias and Umbrian products guide

Discover where to eat in Perugia: from black truffle to strangozzi, the complete guide to Umbrian cuisine among old town trattorias and farmers' markets.

Where to eat in Perugia: best restaurants, trattorias and Umbrian products guide

Perugia, Italy's green heart at the table

Perugia is the gateway to Umbrian cuisine, one of Italy's most underrated. Umbria has no sea but compensates with truffles, norcineria (artisan charcuterie), extraordinary extra-virgin olive oil and legumes that grow on generous hillsides. Perugian cooking is essential, honest, no-frills: a few ingredients of supreme quality combined with ancient wisdom.

The city, perched on its hill, is a medieval labyrinth where any alley may hide a trattoria with dishes unchanged for centuries. The presence of the University for Foreigners and the State University makes Perugia cosmopolitan yet faithful to its gastronomic roots.

Must-try specialities

Strangozzi (or stringozzi) are Perugia's signature pasta: long, thick, eggless noodles, hand-rolled and dressed with black truffle or sausage-and-tomato ragu. Umbricelli, thicker and more irregular, are the other typical pasta. Black truffle from Norcia and Spoleto scents dozens of dishes: strangozzi, scrambled eggs, bruschette.

Torta al testo is unleavened bread cooked on a stone plate, filled with prosciutto, cheese, herbs or grilled vegetables. It is quintessential Umbrian street food. Umbrian porchetta, different from the Roman version, is flavoured with wild fennel and garlic and served in a roll or sliced as a main course.

Norcia cured meats (prosciutto, capocollo, sausages, corallina) are Umbria's pride. Extra-virgin olive oil from the Perugian hills is among Italy's finest, with an intense, peppery taste. For desserts, torcolo di San Costanzo is a traditional spiced ring cake.

Best neighbourhoods for eating

Acropolis and upper old town

The streets around Corso Vannucci and Piazza IV Novembre are the heart of Perugian life. Trattorias are tucked into medieval alleys, often with just a few tables and daily-changing menus. Osteria A Priori on Via dei Priori is a classic with authentic Umbrian dishes and territorial wines. Dal mi' Cocco on Corso Garibaldi is frequented by students and professors for its home cooking.

Corso Cavour and lower area

Descending toward Porta San Pietro, the character becomes more residential and prices drop. Trattorias on Corso Cavour and side streets serve complete lunches at honest prices, with fewer tourists and more Perugians.

Borgo XX Giugno

The borgo outside Porta San Pietro is a quiet neighbourhood with trattorias patronised almost exclusively by locals. The view over the Umbrian hills is extraordinary and the atmosphere is more village than city.

Trattorias and osterias to try

Osteria A Priori is perhaps the best value in the centre: strangozzi with truffle, wild boar stew and a selection of Umbrian wines that would put a wine bar to shame. Ristorante Il Falchetto on Via Bartolo offers refined Umbrian cuisine in a historic palazzo with frescoed vaults. Trattoria del Borgo in Borgo XX Giugno is Perugia's best-kept secret: generous portions, local ingredients and rock-bottom prices.

For stuffed torta al testo, L'Officina on Via Bontempi is the benchmark: the stone plate is hot all day and the fillings change with the seasons.

Street food and markets

Torta al testo is Perugian street food: you will find it in centre shops filled with prosciutto and stracchino, sausage and broccoli, or grilled vegetables. It costs 4 to 5 euros and is a complete meal.

The covered market at Piazza Matteotti, beneath the Carducci gardens, hosts stalls of local producers with cured meats, cheeses, olive oil and legumes. On Saturday mornings the farmers' market around Piazza Europa is the best place to buy directly from Umbrian producers.

During Eurochocolate (October), the centre's streets fill with stalls of artisan chocolate and the city becomes one great open-air pastry shop.

Budget tips

Perugia is already affordable by central Italian standards. Daily menus at centre trattorias cost 10 to 15 euros. A stuffed torta al testo is the cheapest and most satisfying lunch. Buy cured meats and cheeses at the covered market and picnic in the Carducci gardens with valley views: you will spend 5 to 6 euros for an exceptional meal.

Umbrian wines (Sagrantino, Montefalco Rosso, Grechetto) cost far less than their Tuscan equivalents: visit wineries in Montefalco or Torgiano for tastings and direct purchases.

Unique food experiences

Join a truffle hunt with a tartufaio and his dog in the hills around Perugia: the experience includes the search, preparation and tasting of freshly found truffle. Visit an olive mill during the harvest (October to November) to taste new-season oil straight from the press.

In the evening, a stroll along Corso Vannucci followed by an aperitivo with hill views from the Mercato Vianova terrace is the Perugian ritual every visitor should adopt.

Discover more

Practical info

When is the best time to visit Where to eat in Perugia?

The recommended time is April, May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.

Is Where to eat in Perugia crowded?

Where to eat in Perugia is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.

Where is Where to eat in Perugia?

Where to eat in Perugia is located in Perugia, Umbria, Italy.

Nearby

More destinations to discover

← All guides