Yogyakarta — Borobudur and Prambanan Without the Crowds

Yogyakarta: the beating heart of Javanese culture

In an Indonesia that tourism knows almost exclusively through Bali, Yogyakarta — or Jogja, as the locals affectionately call it — is Java's best-kept secret. A city of students, artists and artisans, it is the gateway to the two most magnificent temples in Southeast Asia: Borobudur and Prambanan. But Jogja is far more than its temples: it is a living, chaotic, creative city where the tradition of sultans coexists with street art and gamelan reverberates alongside Indonesian rock.

Unlike Bali, tourism here has not yet altered the local identity. Prices are extremely low, the people are warm and the sense of discovery is genuine. Yogyakarta is the Indonesia trip you should take before everyone else catches on.

What to see in Yogyakarta

Borobudur at dawn

The world's largest Buddhist temple rises 40 kilometres from the city, surrounded by rice paddies and volcanoes. Built in the 9th century from more than two million blocks of volcanic stone, Borobudur is a terraced pyramid 35 metres high that represents the path to enlightenment through 72 bell-shaped stupas and thousands of narrative bas-reliefs.

The most moving experience is the Sunrise Tour: you enter the park at 4:30 in the morning and climb to the upper terrace to watch the dawn break. Mist rises slowly from the rice fields, the volcanoes Merapi and Merbabu emerge on the horizon and the stone bells of the Buddhas catch a golden light. It is a moment of pure transcendence.

Prambanan at dusk

If Borobudur is Buddhist, Prambanan is its Hindu counterpart. This complex of 240 temples, dominated by three towers dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma, was built almost simultaneously with Borobudur in the 9th century. The bas-reliefs narrating the Ramayana are among the finest in all of Asian art. At sunset, with the towers silhouetted against a blazing sky, the scene is monumental.

From May to October, the Ramayana Ballet is performed outdoors with the illuminated Prambanan as backdrop: a dance, music and theatre spectacle that is truly unmissable.

The Kraton and Taman Sari

The Kraton is the sultan's palace, still today the official residence of the monarch of Yogyakarta — one of Indonesia's last active monarchies. Inside, teak wood pavilions, ancient gamelan instruments and daily court dances offer a glimpse into the refined Javanese culture. A short walk away, Taman Sari (the Water Castle) was the sultan's pleasure garden: pools, canals and pavilions now in romantic ruin, surrounded by a quarter of batik artists.

Jalan Malioboro

Jogja's main thoroughfare is a river of life: becak (pedal rickshaws), street vendors, batik stalls, buskers and the scent of gudeg — the city's signature dish, a sweet stew of young jackfruit slow-cooked for hours. In the evening the pavement becomes an open-air restaurant where you can dine seated on floor mats for less than 2 euros.

Batik and handicrafts

Yogyakarta is the world capital of batik, the wax-resist fabric dyeing technique recognised by UNESCO. In the workshops of the Taman Sari quarter and along Jalan Tirtodipuran you can watch artisans at work and purchase authentic pieces at extraordinary prices. A half-day batik course costs around 10 euros and lets you create your own fabric.

The Merapi volcano

North of the city, Merapi (the Mountain of Fire) is one of the world's most active volcanoes. Dawn treks depart at 4 in the morning from the village of Selo and reach the crater in about four hours. The view from the summit — smoke rising, the plains of Java stretching to infinity — is staggering. For those who prefer something less strenuous, jeep tours through the villages destroyed by the 2010 eruption are equally impressive.

How to get there from Europe

- Via Jakarta: fly from Europe to Jakarta (13–16 hours with a stopover in Dubai, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur), then a domestic flight to Yogyakarta (1h10) with Garuda Indonesia, Lion Air or AirAsia.

- Via Bali: fly to Denpasar, then a domestic flight to Jogja (1h). Ideal for combining both destinations.

- By train: from Jakarta, the scenic train crosses Java's rice paddies in 7–8 hours — an extraordinary journey in itself.

Practical information

Visa

Italian citizens can obtain a Visa on Arrival (30 days, 500,000 IDR / approx. €30, extendable once). For longer stays, an e-visa is available.

When to go

The dry season runs from May to September: ideal conditions for temple visits and trekking on Merapi. Temperatures range between 22 and 33 degrees year-round. The rainy season (November–March) brings afternoon downpours but does not prevent sightseeing.

Budget

Jogja is incredibly affordable:

- Accommodation: guesthouses from €8–15/night, hotels with a pool from €20–40.

- Meals: €1–3 at street food stalls, €5–10 at restaurants.

- Borobudur sunrise ticket: approx. €30 (foreigners).

- Prambanan entrance: approx. €20.

- Average daily budget: approx. €30 including entrance fees.

Jogja as an undertourism choice

While Bali grapples with overtourism through entry taxes and restrictions, Yogyakarta receives travellers with the generosity typical of Java. Here tourism is still an encounter: with students who will stop you in the street to practise their English, with families who will invite you to share a plate of gudeg, with the unfiltered beauty of a millennial civilisation.