November in Thermal Spa Villages — Warmth and Silence Out of Season

Thermal springs and borghi: the perfect November pairing

November is the greyest month of the year, and for precisely that reason it is perfect for the terme. Italy is scattered with thermal borghi where hot water has sprung naturally from the earth for millennia, creating unique landscapes of steam and silence. In November the tourists are absent, facilities lower their prices and the experience becomes intimate and restorative. Here are the thermal borghi where the warmth is not only in the water.

Saturnia (Grosseto, Tuscany)

The Cascate del Mulino are the most famous free thermal springs in Italy: natural travertine pools where sulphurous water at 37°C flows freely twenty-four hours a day. In November, while in summer you would count hundreds of bathers, you will find at most twenty. The steam rising from the pools in the morning mist creates an almost unreal atmosphere. The borgo of Saturnia is 2 km away: accommodation from 45 euros a night. The Terme di Saturnia (a private facility) offer a pool and treatments from 25 euros day admission.

Bagno Vignoni (Siena, Tuscany)

A medieval borgo built around a monumental thermal pool in place of the central square. The water at 49°C fills the Piazza delle Sorgenti, creating a steaming mirror surrounded by Renaissance buildings. Swimming in the historic pool is not permitted, but the Parco dei Mulini below the borgo has natural pools accessible free of charge. In November Bagno Vignoni is silent and poetic. Accommodation in the borgo from 60 euros.

Val d'Orcia in November

Bagno Vignoni sits in the heart of the Val d'Orcia: combine it with Pienza (the pecorino), Montalcino (the Brunello) and San Quirico d'Orcia. In November the landscape is bare and dramatic, with cypress trees emerging from the mist.

Bagni San Filippo (Siena, Tuscany)

Less well known than Saturnia, this small borgo in the Val d'Orcia hides the Balena Bianca waterfalls: brilliant white calcium formations where warm water flows freely through the woodland. Access is free and the path from the borgo to the cascades takes 15 minutes. In November you will almost certainly be alone. Note: the water is very hot (48°C) in places.

Terme di Petriolo (Siena–Grosseto)

On the Farma river, these Roman thermal springs offer natural pools along the watercourse, where the thermal water mingles with the river. Free access is from the car park along the road (10 minutes on foot). In November the surrounding woodland is in full foliage. It is a wild and little-frequented place all year round; in November it is almost mystical.

Terme di San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena)

The borgo became famous for the archaeological discovery of Etruscan bronzes, but its 42 thermal springs were known to the Romans. The Bagno Grande in the borgo square is a historic complex with pools at 40°C. Day admission from 30 euros in low season. The borgo itself is one of the most elegant in Tuscany, with artisan shops and trattorias where a meal costs from 20 euros.

Bagni di Lucca (Lucca, Tuscany)

Frequented by Shelley, Byron and Montaigne, the terme of Bagni di Lucca are a piece of European history. The historic facility offers the natural Grotta Sudatoria (a steam bath carved into the rock, 15 euros) and thermal pools. The borgo nestles in the valley of the Serchio, surrounded by chestnut forests. In November the chestnut harvest has just ended and restaurants serve necci (chestnut-flour crêpes) and chestnut polenta.

Terme di Fordongianus (Oristano, Sardinia)

The Roman Terme of Forum Traiani are among the best preserved in Sardinia: water gushes at 56°C into monumental pools. Admission to the thermal complex costs 10 euros. In November Sardinia has mild temperatures (14–18°C) and the basalt borgo of Fordongianus, on the river Tirso, is a place of rare tranquillity.

Practical tips for the terme in November

• For free springs, bring rubber sandals (the floor can be slippery), a bathrobe and a bag for wet clothes
• Arrive early in the morning at free springs: you will have the pools almost to yourselves
• Sulphurous water stains swimwear: use an old or dark one
• Private thermal facilities often offer combined B&B + admission packages: they are good value
• After a thermal bath the body cools quickly: wrap up well
• Combine with visits to wineries and olive presses: November is new-oil season
• Bring a torch if visiting free springs after dark (by 4:30 p.m. in November it is already dark)

A weekend in a thermal borgo in November costs less than a Saturday in a city spa. And the experience has no equal.