Luang Prabang: The City Where Monks Walk at Dawn and the Mekong Flows Slow

Luang Prabang is a sliver of land caught between the Mekong and the Nam Khan, in northern Laos. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995, it is one of the few cities in Southeast Asia where French colonial architecture still coexists with gilded Buddhist temples without either having overwhelmed the other. The city has chosen not to grow: no skyscrapers, no international chains, no raucous nightlife.

The monks' alms round

Every morning at 5:30, hundreds of monks in saffron robes emerge from the temples and walk in single file through the city's streets. Residents wait kneeling with baskets of sticky rice. This is the Tak Bat, the morning alms round, a tradition that survives intact in Luang Prabang. To respect it: no flash photography, keep your distance, do not block the procession's path.

The hidden temples

Wat Xieng Thong, at the tip of the peninsula, is the most beautiful temple — its cascading roof almost brushes the ground, and the rear mosaic depicts a tree of life. But the less visited temples are those on Phousi Hill and in the side lanes: Wat Aham with its banyan trees, Wat Visounalat with the That Makmo («watermelon stupa»), Wat Long Khoun on the far bank of the Mekong, reachable only by boat.

The Kuang Si waterfalls

Thirty kilometres from the centre, the Kuang Si waterfalls are a series of turquoise natural pools cascading sixty metres through a bamboo forest. The water is cool, clear and safe to swim in. The Asian black bear rescue centre at the entrance is run by Free the Bears. Arrive early — at 8, when it opens — and you will have the falls almost to yourself.

Living Luang Prabang

The night market along Sisavangvong Road sells Hmong textiles, paper lanterns and Lao street food. For dinner: Joma Bakery Cafe is an institution, but the restaurants along the Nam Khan are more authentic. The Lao baguette (khao jii) with pâté is the most delicious French legacy. Best time: November–February (dry and cool). Avoid April–May (extreme heat) and the rainy season (July–September). Direct flights from Bangkok or Hanoi.