Guanajuato — Mexico's Colourful Underground City

Guanajuato: A Labyrinth of Colour Above and Below Ground

In the heart of central Mexico, wedged into a narrow, winding valley, Guanajuato is a city that defies urban logic. Its main streets run through underground tunnels — former riverbeds repurposed for traffic — while above ground, pastel-coloured houses climb the hillsides like tiles of a living mosaic. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988, it is a vibrant, cultured university city that remains, surprisingly, little visited by international tourists.

The Underground Streets: A World Beneath the World

The network of túneles is what makes Guanajuato unique in the world. In the 20th century, the Guanajuato River was diverted and its natural tunnels — deep, wide, and lit — became vehicle roads. Today, cars, buses, and pedestrians navigate an intricate underground system that surfaces unexpectedly in squares and gardens. Walking the tunnels on foot, especially at dusk when light filters through the openings, is an almost cinematic experience.

Teatro Juárez and the Colonial Heart

Teatro Juárez, inaugurated in 1903, is a neo-Gothic jewel with Moorish-style interiors that still hosts concerts and performances. The steps in front of it are the city's living room: students, musicians, and vendors of elote (grilled corn) mingle in a festive atmosphere. Just steps away, the Jardín de la Unión — the triangular, tree-lined main square — is the perfect starting point for exploring the centre.

Callejón del Beso

The Alley of the Kiss is a passage so narrow that the balconies of the facing houses are just 68 centimetres apart. Legend tells of two lovers who kissed across the balconies, defying her father. Today it is tradition to kiss on the third step of the staircase to guarantee seven years of happiness. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds that gather in the afternoon.

The Pípila Monument and the City View

A funicular climbs to the Pípila monument, the independence hero, from where you enjoy the most spectacular view of Guanajuato: a natural amphitheatre of yellow, pink, orange, and turquoise houses cascading down to the valley floor. At dusk, as the lights come on one by one, the city resembles a living nativity scene. The funicular costs less than €1; the walking path is an alternative of about twenty minutes.

University, Mummies, and Festival Cervantino

The Universidad de Guanajuato, with its majestic white staircase, is one of the oldest academic institutions in the Americas. The Museo de las Momias, macabre but fascinating, displays over a hundred bodies naturally mummified by the mineral soil of the local cemetery — not for the faint-hearted, but culturally significant.

The Festival Internacional Cervantino, every October, transforms the city into a scattered stage: theatre, dance, music, and literature spill across squares, tunnels, and courtyards for three weeks. It is the largest cultural festival in Latin America and another reason to plan the trip for autumn.

What to Eat

- Enchiladas mineras — Guanajuato's signature dish, with guajillo chilli sauce, potatoes, and carrots

- Guacamayas — sandwiches with chicharrón (fried pork rind) and hot sauce, the local street food

- Cajeta — a caramel made from goat's milk, a speciality of nearby Celaya

Day Trips

- San Miguel de Allende — an hour and a half away, another colonial gem with a vibrant arts scene

- Mineral de Pozos — a fascinating mining ghost town in the process of revival

- La Valenciana — a visitable historic silver mine and a Churrigueresque baroque church

Practical Information for Italian Travellers

Getting There

From Italy, fly to Mexico City (direct flights from Rome, about 12 hours) or to Bajío Airport (León), just 30 minutes from Guanajuato. From Mexico City, first-class coaches (ETN or Primera Plus) take about 5 hours (€25).

Visa and Documents

Italian citizens do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 180 days. An electronic migration form is completed on arrival. A passport valid for at least six months is required.

When to Go

The best period is from October to March: dry weather, daytime temperatures between 20 and 28 degrees, cool nights. October is ideal for Festival Cervantino. The rainy season (June–September) brings short but intense afternoon downpours.

Approximate Budget

Guanajuato is very affordable: a hostel costs €10–15, a colonial hotel €30–50, a market lunch €3–5, a restaurant dinner €10–15. The average daily budget is around €40.

Responsible Travel Tips

Guanajuato thrives on culture, not mass tourism. Attend the callejoneadas — roving serenades led by student musician groups (estudiantinas) through the city's streets — and leave a generous tip. Buy crafts directly from producers at neighbourhood markets.

Safety and Useful Tips

Guanajuato is considered one of the safest cities in Mexico, thanks to its strong university presence and the compact scale of the historic centre. You can walk anywhere at any hour. The one thing to watch is traffic in the underground streets, where lanes can be busy and pavements narrow. To navigate the labyrinth of tunnels and alleys, download an offline copy of Google Maps before you arrive — internet coverage in the tunnels is poor. Tap water is not drinkable, but garrafones (purified water containers) are available everywhere.