Where to eat in Parma: Parma ham, tortelli and Emilian trattorias

Parma: Italy's capital of taste

Parma has been designated a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy, and a few minutes in the city suffice to understand why. Prosciutto di Parma DOP and Parmigiano Reggiano are born here, fresh pasta is a daily art, and the culture of good food permeates every aspect of life. This isn't cuisine that seeks to astound: it's simply perfect in its simplicity.

Must-try local dishes

Tortelli d'erbetta (filled with ricotta and chard, butter and Parmigiano) are the emblematic first course. Anolini in brodo (small ravioli in concentrated meat broth) are the festive dish, traditionally served on Christmas Day. Rosa di Parma (puff pastry filled with ham, Parmigiano and bechamel) is the Parma dish least known outside the city.

Other essential dishes: Culatello di Zibello DOP (the king of cured meats, aged in Po Valley fog), spalla cotta di San Secondo, torta fritta (fried dough called this here) with cold cuts, bomba di riso (rice timbale stuffed with pigeon) and mixed boiled meats with green sauces.

For desserts, spongata (spiced tart with honey and dried fruit) and torta Maria Luigia (chocolate and sour cherries).

Best areas for eating

Piazza Garibaldi and Oltretorrente

The historic centre around piazza Garibaldi and the working-class Oltretorrente quarter (across the Parma torrent) are the gastronomic heart. In Oltretorrente you'll find the most authentic, least touristy trattorias: blackboard menus, Lambrusco by the carafe, enormous portions. It's the historic workers' quarter where cooking has stayed genuine.

Strada della Repubblica and via Farini

The elegant centre streets host historic food shops, delicatessens with fresh pasta counters and more refined restaurants. Here you can buy freshly sliced prosciutto, Parmigiano shavings and a bottle of Lambrusco for a picnic in the Ducal Park.

Southern area: via Langhirano and the hills road

In the hills towards Langhirano (Parma Ham's homeland) you'll find trattorias immersed in greenery with panoramic terraces, local cured meats and home cooking. 20 minutes from the centre, ideal for Sunday lunch.

Recommended trattorias and osterias

• Oltretorrente trattorias serve torta fritta with mixed cold cuts (prosciutto, coppa, salami), anolini in brodo and roast veal with sides for 25-30 euros. Wine included.
• Osterias in borgo Giacomo Tommasini offer cured meat tastings (culatello, 24-month prosciutto, spalla cotta) with tigelle and crescentine.
• Shop-restaurants on via Farini have deli counters for quick eating: a plate of tortelli or anolini at 8-10 euros.

Street food and markets

The covered market at piazza Ghiaia is the temple of Parma food: stalls of aged Parmigiano Reggiano (24, 36, over 48 months), hanging prosciutti, fresh pasta of the day, traditional balsamic vinegar. Open every morning, it's an unmissable visit even just to look.

For street food, torta fritta (small triangles of fried leavened dough) served with prosciutto crudo is the quintessential street food. Found at centre fry shops and village festivals. Crescentine (small buns cooked in terracotta moulds) filled with lard and Parmigiano are the alternative.

Budget tips

• Takeaway torta fritta with prosciutto costs 5-7 euros and is a perfect lunch.
• Lunch menus at Oltretorrente trattorias cost 12-18 euros all-inclusive.
• Buy prosciutto and Parmigiano at piazza Ghiaia market and picnic in the Ducal Park: gourmet lunch at 8-10 euros.
• Lambrusco by the carafe costs 3-5 euros per litre at osterias: it's Parma's traditional wine, sparkling and perfect with cured meats.
• Visit dairies on the Langhirano road: they sell Parmigiano retail at factory prices.

Unique food experiences

Book a visit to a prosciuttificio in Langhirano to see ageing in centuries-old cellars and taste freshly sliced ham. Visit a culatello cellar in Zibello, in the lowlands along the Po, where the foggy microclimate creates unique conditions for this cured meat. Join an Emilian pasta-making course: some trattorias teach hand-rolling dough and preparing tortelli and anolini with family recipes.

Complete your trip to Parma

Also discover Where to stay in Parma for ideal accommodation, What to see in Parma in 2 days for an itinerary through art and gastronomy, and How to get to Parma to organise your journey.