The Val di Fiemme Cycle Path Along the Avisio
In the Val di Fiemme, Trentino, a cycle path follows the Avisio stream through the spruce forests that supply the wood for violins. It's the quiet alternative to the far more crowded cycle paths of the Val di Fassa and the Val Pusteria: the same Alpine quality, but without the crush.
Foto: © Ra Boe / Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 3.0 de) — Wikimedia Commons
The Val di Fiemme has a fortunate neighbour problem: it borders more famous and sought-after valleys, and so it stays in the shadow of their names. Those looking for the Dolomites by bike think immediately of the cycle paths of the Val di Fassa or the Val Pusteria, and end up ignoring this valley in between, where the Avisio stream flows quietly among thick spruce woods and meadows. Yet it is precisely this relative neglect that makes it today one of the most serene routes in the Trentino Alps.
The forest of violins
The stretch that gives these woods their fame is the Paneveggio forest, known as the forest of violins: here grow the resonance spruces, the wood that for centuries luthiers have sought to build the soundboxes of stringed instruments. Cycling with the awareness that around you grow the trees that will become violins changes the way you listen to the silence of the forest. The Avisio, the stream that rises from the glaciers of the Marmolada and runs through the Avisio valleys down to the Adige, is the thread of water the cycle path follows for much of the route.
The itinerary winds along the valley floor, passing through the historic villages of the Fiemme community. Cavalese is the main centre, with its palazzo that was the seat of the Magnifica Comunità, the ancient institution that to this day administers the valley's collective woodlands. From there the cycle path runs toward Predazzo, dominated by the Dolomite walls, and you can head toward the Passo di San Lugano or, on the other side, toward the mouths of the valleys that climb to the great mountain groups. Cavalese, Tesero, Ziano and Predazzo follow one another like beads on a rosary among spruce woods and clearings.
How to get there
Getting there requires a bit of climbing: the valley lies high up and is reached by ascending from the Adige valley or from the passes that connect it to the neighbouring valleys. Once inside, however, the valley-floor cycle path is smooth and well signposted, on a mostly paved surface or in any case a cycle-friendly one suited to touring bikes and mountain bikes. The route follows the stream, so the gradients are the gentle ones of the Alpine valley floor: you climb and descend following the Avisio, with a few more demanding stretches where the valley narrows, but never the steep ramps of the passes. It's a route within reach, in nature, of anyone with a minimum of fitness, where the effort is repaid again and again by the altitude and the mountain air.
When to go
The right time is the heart of summer, between June and September. High up the season is short: before June the slopes can still be cool and damp, and after September the air quickly turns autumnal. Summer, however, is precisely when the neighbouring valleys fill with tourists, while the Val di Fiemme keeps its balance: the villages remain liveable, the trails uncrowded, and the cycle path along the Avisio runs among local families and the few cycle tourists who have chosen the less obvious way. The coolness of the spruce woods makes it pleasant to pedal even on the hottest days on the plains.
It's worth remembering that the Val di Fiemme guards a tradition of self-government that is ancient and still alive: the woods belong not to private owners but to the community, according to rules that span the centuries, and this explains why the spruce forests are so well tended and the landscape so harmonious. Cycling among the rows of spruces you are in fact crossing a commons, managed with a forestry wisdom that has been lost elsewhere, and this awareness adds a sense of respect to the pleasure of the route.
A practical tip
A practical tip: dedicate time to the Paneveggio forest and its visitor centre, taking a break from the bike to walk a little among the resonance spruces. Understanding why this wood is special, and perhaps hearing the story of the luthiers who still come to choose it, gives depth to the whole journey. Then bring a light jacket even in summer: high up the mornings are cool and the afternoon storms arrive quickly, and in the Val di Fiemme the weather changes with the speed typical of the mountains.
Practical guides for Todi
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Val di Fiemme Cycle Path Along the Avisio?
The recommended time is June and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Val di Fiemme Cycle Path Along the Avisio?
The Val di Fiemme Cycle Path Along the Avisio is located in Val di Fiemme, Trentino.
