Instead of Dubrovnik: Trogir, the Dalmatian Island-City Where Romanesque Meets the Sea
An entire UNESCO island-city linked to the mainland by a bridge. Romanesque cathedral, Venetian walls and not a cruise ship in sight.
Foto: Ai@ce (CC BY 4.0) — Flickr
Trogir is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe, and it sits on an island so small you can cross it in ten minutes. Linked to the mainland by one bridge and to the island of Čiovo by another, it is a concentration of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture that UNESCO inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1997.
The Cathedral of Saint Lawrence — Sveti Lovro — has a Romanesque portal carved by Master Radovan in 1240 that is considered the most important work of Romanesque sculpture in all of Dalmatia. Scenes from the life of Christ intertwine with figures of animals, monsters and characters from daily life, in an iconographic repertoire of extraordinary richness. You can climb the bell tower for a 360-degree view over the city, the lagoon and the mountains behind.
The historic centre is a labyrinth of Venetian alleyways — arcades, courtyards, noble coats of arms — that open out onto the Riva, the waterfront promenade where the whole town comes out to stroll in the evening. The cafés overlook the lagoon and the prices are those of real Croatia, not tourist Croatia: a coffee one euro, a beer two, a fish dinner for fifteen.
The Ćipiko Palace, with its Gothic triple window, is one of the most elegant civic buildings in Dalmatia. The Camerlengo fortress, at the western tip of the island, hosts concerts and open-air screenings in summer with the sea as backdrop.
Trogir is just five kilometres from Split airport, making it a perfect base for exploring the Dalmatian coast without the anxiety of catching a flight. From here you can reach the islands of Hvar and Brač by ferry, Split by bus in twenty minutes, and Šibenik in an hour. But you might not want to move at all: the beaches of Čiovo are just a short walk away, and life in Trogir moves at a pace that invites you to stay.
Avoid August if you can: the city comes alive but never gets as crowded as Dubrovnik. May, June and September are the ideal months: the sea is swimmable, the light is perfect and you can dine outdoors in the evening without a reservation.
Practical guides for Roma
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Instead of Dubrovnik?
The recommended time is May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Is Instead of Dubrovnik crowded?
Instead of Dubrovnik is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is Instead of Dubrovnik?
Instead of Dubrovnik is located in Trogir, Dalmatia, Croatia.
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