August Against the Current — Art Cities in Glorious Emptiness

Italy in reverse: art cities in August

While millions of Italians head for the coasts, the great art cities empty out. It is a peculiarly Italian paradox: the world's most beautiful historic centres lie half-deserted for three weeks, with museums accessible without queues, restaurants with free tables and an unreal silence. The trick is to choose the right cities — those where the heat is manageable and cultural life does not grind entirely to a halt.

Turin

The Savoy capital is among the most liveable of Italy's great cities in August. Temperatures are high but bearable (30–33°C, against the 38–40 of Rome), and the arcades — 18 km of covered walkways — offer continuous shade. The Museo Egizio is the second largest in the world and in August is visited without queues (15 euros, reduced 11). The Cinema Museum at the Mole Antonelliana (12 euros) is a unique experience. In the evening, the Murazzi along the Po and the bars of San Salvario are lively even in August.

Where to eat in Turin in August

Many restaurants close for their summer break, but the classics hold firm: the Bicerin on Piazza della Consolata for the original bicerin drink (6 euros), Porto di Savona for summer bagna cauda, the artisan gelaterie of Via Po. Check for closures before you go.

Bologna

The quintessential university city empties of students and tourists in August. The arcades (UNESCO World Heritage) provide shade and coolness; the trattorie of the Quadrilatero that stay open serve tortellini and tagliatelle without a wait. Climb to San Luca at sunset: the walk beneath the longest arcade in the world (3.8 km, 666 arches) is meditative. MAMbo and Palazzo Pepoli are the museums not to miss.

Genoa

The caruggi — the narrow alleys of the largest historic centre in Europe — are cool even on the hottest days. Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Doria-Tursi on the Rolli (UNESCO World Heritage) are visitable with a combined ticket (9 euros). The Porto Antico with the Acquario (27 euros, book online) operates at full capacity. Focaccia di Recco (from 4 euros) and mortar-ground pesto are obligatory.

Trieste

The summer bora makes Trieste cool and breezy even in the height of August. Piazza Unità d'Italia is the largest seafront square in Europe and in summer hosts concerts. Castello di Miramare with its park is perfect for an afternoon (10 euros). The literary cafés — Antico Caffè San Marco, Caffè Tommaseo — are oases of Austro-Hungarian civility where time stands still.

Perugia

The first half of August in Perugia means Umbria Jazz, with free concerts in the piazzas and a festive atmosphere. The second half is silence and chocolate: the Perugina factory offers tours (10 euros). The Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria in the Palazzo dei Priori (8 euros) houses masterpieces by Perugino and Pinturicchio. From here, Assisi and Spello are 30 minutes away.

Palermo

For those undaunted by the heat (35–38°C), Palermo in August is a total experience. The historic markets — Ballarò, Vucciria, Capo — are active even in the height of summer. The Arab-Norman churches (UNESCO World Heritage, combined ticket 12 euros) are cool and spectacular. Street food — arancine, panelle, sfincione — costs from 2 euros. In the evening Mondello offers the sea 20 minutes from the centre.

Mantua

Surrounded by the lakes of the Mincio, Mantua has a microclimate less torrid than the other Po Valley cities. Palazzo Te with the rooms of Giulio Romano (15 euros) is one of the masterpieces of Mannerism. The Palazzo Ducale (13 euros) is enormous and deserves half a day. In August the Festival della Letteratura animates the centre for five days with events that are often free. From Verona or Milan it is reached in an hour and a half by train.

Tips for the city in August

• Visit museums and churches in the central hours of the day (the cool air saves the afternoon)
• Go out early in the morning (before 9) and in the evening after 6 p.m.
• Check closures: many restaurants and shops close from 10 to 25 August
• Hotels offer discounts of up to 50% compared to spring
• Bring a water bottle: public drinking fountains in Italy are everywhere and the water is excellent
• 15 August (Ferragosto) is a public holiday: everything closed except bars, restaurants and major museums

August in the city is not a renunciation of the sea: it is a different way of experiencing Italy, and often the most rewarding one.