What to see in Syracuse in 2 days: itinerary through Greek archaeology and Ortigia's Baroque

Why visit Syracuse in 2 days

Syracuse was the most powerful city in the ancient Mediterranean, a rival to Athens and larger than Rome in the time of Archimedes. Today this dual identity - the Greek city on the mainland and the Baroque jewel on the island of Ortigia - makes it one of Sicily's most captivating destinations. Two days let you experience both sides without rushing.

Day 1: Greek Syracuse

Morning (3-4 hours)

Devote the morning to the Neapolis Archaeological Park, the heart of ancient Syracuse. The Greek Theatre (5th century BC) is one of the largest in the ancient world and still hosts classical performances in summer. The Ear of Dionysius, an artificial grotto 23 metres high with prodigious acoustics, is the most iconic monument.

Also visit the Roman Amphitheatre (3rd century AD) and the Altar of Hieron II, a sacrificial altar 198 metres long. The entire park needs at least 2 hours at a relaxed pace.

• Greek Theatre: 45 minutes
• Ear of Dionysius and Latomie del Paradiso: 45 minutes
• Roman Amphitheatre and Altar of Hieron: 30 minutes

Afternoon (3 hours)

After lunch, visit the Paolo Orsi Regional Archaeological Museum, one of the most important in the Mediterranean. The Venus Landolina and the finds from the Greek colony deserve at least 1.5 hours.

Then move to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Tears, the teardrop-shaped building that dominates the skyline. Whether you like the architecture or not, the view from the terrace is remarkable.

Hidden gem: the Catacombs of San Giovanni, second in size only to those in Rome. The guided tour (30 minutes) takes you into a 4th-century underground world that few tourists explore.

Evening

Cross the bridge to Ortigia for your first evening on the island. Dine at a trattoria in the Giudecca quarter with fresh fish from the market: pasta with sea urchins, tuna alla ghiotta or grilled swordfish.

Day 2: Ortigia, the enchanted island

Morning (3-4 hours)

Ortigia can be walked in a few hours but deserves slowness. Start at the Temple of Apollo (6th century BC), the oldest Doric stone temple in Sicily, then enter Ortigia market on Via de Benedictis: stalls of whole swordfish, Pachino tomatoes, almonds and pistachios.

Reach Piazza Duomo, one of Italy's most beautiful squares. The Cathedral is built around the columns of the 5th-century BC Temple of Athena, visible both inside and in the outer wall: two thousand five hundred years of history in a single building.

• Temple of Apollo: 15 minutes
• Ortigia market: 30 minutes
• Piazza Duomo and Cathedral: 45 minutes
• Palazzo Bellomo and Regional Gallery: 45 minutes

Afternoon (3 hours)

Descend to the Fountain of Arethusa, the freshwater spring just metres from the sea where wild papyrus grows, the only specimens in Europe along with those on the River Ciane. The myth of the nymph Arethusa transformed into a spring by Artemis is told by Ovid.

Walk along the Lungomare di Levante to the Maniace Castle, the Swabian fortress at the very tip of Ortigia. The view over the Great Harbour, where Athens lost its fleet in 413 BC, is heavy with history.

Hidden gem: the Jewish Bath beneath the Hotel Residence Alla Giudecca, a 6th-century mikveh discovered by chance during renovation work. It is the oldest in Europe and can be visited by appointment.

Evening

Aperitivo on the Terrazza delle Mura, then dinner on the Ortigia waterfront. Do not miss Sicilian granita with brioche for dessert: in Syracuse they make it with almonds or black mulberries.

Practical tips

Syracuse is walkable: Ortigia is largely pedestrianised, the Archaeological Park is a 20-minute walk from the bridge. From July to September book Park tickets online. Parking: Talete (on Ortigia, paid) or Von Platen (free, 10 minutes on foot).

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